Sewing machines: How to buy a sewing machine Jargon buster

Vast leaps in technology have been made as fashions and techniques have changed. Although the basic principle remains the same, the sheer range of sewing machine features can be confusing, particularly if you're a first-time user.

Bobbin

Sewing machines use two separate threads to make a stitch – the needle thread, which comes down from the top of the machine, and the bobbin thread, which comes upwards from the bottom of the machine.

A bobbin is a small spool for holding the thread in the bottom of the machine; it sits in a compartment under the needle. Thread needs to be wound onto the bobbin before you start sewing. Most electric machines have a bobbin winding function.

Bobbins in older machines load from the side and usually sit inside a metal case, which helps to control the tension in the thread. New machines often have a drop-in bobbin, which loads from above. Sometimes they have a see-through cover over the bobbin compartment, which makes it easier to see how much thread is left.

Feed dog

If you look at the plate under the sewing machines needle, you'll see tiny saw-shaped metal teeth sticking up through it. These teeth are part of the feed dog, a metal plate responsible for feeding fabric from the front to the back of the machine.

As the needle comes up out of the fabric after making a stitch, the feed dog teeth rise up and grip the fabric against the presser foot, then slide backwards and pull the fabric with them.

Some machines have a ‘drop feed dog’ function. This means that you can fix the feed dog in the down position. When the feed dog is down you move the fabric manually under the needle in the direction that you choose. This is useful for embroidery and mending.

Free arm

A free arm is a cylinder on the bed of the sewing machine that allows you to sew things like pockets and sleeves. It usually works by detaching a piece on the base of the machine, leaving the arm protruding.

Knee lifter

Found on some machines, particularly those by Elna and Bernina, a knee lifter is a lever which can be pressed with your knee, allowing you to lift the presser foot without taking your hands off your work. It enables you to move the fabric freely for quilting, sewing around curves and embroidery - ideal for large projects and giving you an extra hand to help with fiddly projects.

Needle plate

The needle plate is the part of the machine that fits over the feed dogs on the bed of the machine and covers the bobbin. It also has a hole that the needle passes through. Plates often have a series of lines etched on them. These lines indicate the distance away from the needle. They can be used as a guide to help you sew in a straight line and also to keep your stitches a set distance away from the edge of the fabric.

Presser foot

The presser foot holds the fabric flat under the needle and in place against the needle plate. This stops the fabric from moving about while you sew. There is a range of different presser feet available designed to do different jobs such as inserting a zip or sewing blind hems. Presser feet are either held in by a screw, or a foot-holder clip which makes them easier to change.

Sewing bed 

This is the bottom arm of the ‘C’ of the sewing machine that houses the bobbin. It is often made of two parts: The free arm is a protruding cylinder that can be used to sew smaller or tubular pieces of fabric such as pockets and sleeves.

The extension table fixes around the free arm to create a wide and flat area that is more suitable for supporting and controlling large pieces of fabric.

 

 

Spool 

A spool is the cylindrical plastic holder that carries the thread.

 

 

Stitch selector

Sewing machines come with a range of stitches to choose from. The stitch selector controls where the needle moves as it to stitches, which governs what the stitch looks like. For instance if the needle alternates left and right between stitches it creates a zigzag stitch.

Basic machines have a dial that you turn to select the stitch you want. More expensive machines let you select a stitch by pressing a button or using a touch pad. Both types are usually illustrated to show you the stitch that you're selecting.