Sewing machine reviews: Features explained
Though the basic principles remain the same, the sheer range of sewing machine features can be confusing, particularly if you're a first-time user.
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Types of sewing machine
Electric sewing machines
An electric sewing machine will be enough for many needs
A basic electric sewing machine contains a motor in the body. This drives the needle in the top part of the sewing machine and controls a bobbin and feed dogs (see below) in the lower part under the needle plate.
The motor is driven by a foot pedal, which usually offers a range of speeds - the harder you put your foot down, the faster you sew. The feed dogs automatically feed material to the machine under the needle.
Electric sewing machines allow for a reasonable range and size of stitches, which are selected by turning a dial. They're much faster and more accurate than old-fashioned manual sewing machines.
Computerised sewing machines
Computerised sewing machines do everything that ordinary electric machines do – and an awful lot more. These sewing machines are controlled by computer chips which have the correct tension, length and width programmed in by the manufacturer for each stitch style.
They're operated using a touchpad and computer screen, and with more advanced models you can download programs from your PC. Computerised sewing machines can memorise past work, and will also store hundreds of different stitches for you to choose from.
Overlocker machines
Overlocker machines are used to stop fraying
Overlocker machines are used to stop fraying and to give a professional finish to the seams of a garment. Their main purpose is to neaten seams, which they achieve by trimming while sewing.
An overlocker sews faster than a sewing machine, and you can buy attachments that make it particularly useful for stitching rolled hems, gathering and attaching bindings.
You can use an ordinary sewing machine to neaten an edge, but you have to cut the fabric yourself, then set the machine to zigzag stitch, which takes time and creates a slight ridge.
You can buy an overlocker in addition to your sewing machine, but you can't use an overlocker on its own as it's limited in what it's able to do.
Manual sewing machines
Generally limited to some old heritage models, manual sewing machines are operated by turning a hand wheel as you guide the fabric under the needle with the other hand.
The only place you're likely to come across one of these sewing machines is in an antique shop, a museum, a schoolroom or perhaps hidden away in the loft.
Make sure you check out our sewing machine reviews, which you can filter by different types, before you buy.
Parts of a sewing machine
Sewing machines use two separate threads to make a stitch: the needle thread, which comes down from the top of the machine, and the bobbin thread, which comes upwards from the bottom of the machine. Many parts work together to create a successful stitch.
Bobbin
A bobbin is a small spool for holding the thread in the bottom of the sewing machine; it sits in a compartment under the needle.
The bobbin case holds the plastic bobbin and helps to control the thread tension
Thread needs to be wound onto the bobbin before you start sewing. Most electric machines have a bobbin-winding function.
Bobbins in older sewing machines load from the side and usually sit inside a metal case, which helps to control the tension in the thread.
New sewing machines often have a drop-in bobbin, which loads from above. Sometimes they have a see-through cover over the bobbin compartment, which makes it easier to see how much thread is left.
Presser foot
The presser foot holds the fabric flat under the needle and in place against the feed dog. This helps feed it through evenly as you sew.
There's a range of different presser feet available, designed to do different jobs such as inserting a zip or sewing blind hems.
Presser feet are either held in by a screw or a foot-holder clip, which makes them easier to change.
Feed dog
The feed dog is a metal plate with tiny metal teeth that stick up through the plate under the sewing machine's needle. They feed fabric from the front to the back of the machine.
The feed dogs, needle plate and presser foot work together to keep fabric feeding smoothly through your sewing machine
As the needle comes up out of the fabric after making a stitch, the feed dogs rise up and grip the fabric against the presser foot, then slide backwards and pull the fabric with them.
Some sewing machines have a ‘drop feed dog' function. This means that you can fix the feed dog in the down position, letting you move the fabric manually under the needle in the direction you choose. This is useful for embroidery and mending.
Sewing machine needle plate
The needle plate fits over the feed dog on the bed of the sewing machine and covers the bobbin. It also has a hole that the needle passes through.
Needle plates often have a series of lines etched on them to indicate the distance away from the needle. They can be used as a guide to help you sew in a straight line, and also to keep your stitches a set distance away from the edge of the fabric.
Sewing bed
This is the bottom part of the backwards ‘C' of the sewing machine. It's often made of two parts:
- The free arm is a protruding cylinder that can be used to sew smaller or tubular pieces of fabric such as pockets and sleeves. The bobbin is loaded into this part of the machine
- The extension table fixes around the free arm to create a wide, flat area which is more suitable for supporting and controlling large pieces of fabric.
It's good to have a sewing bed that's curved slightly at the front, as this helps you to feed the fabric smoothly.
Spool holder
This is the pin at the top of the sewing machine where you place the cylindrical plastic reel that carries the thread.
It's useful to have a couple of spool end caps of different diameters – these are the plastic discs that hold the reel in place and help to feed the thread.
Some sewing machines have two spool holders, so you can sew with two different-coloured threads at the same time with a twin needle.
Bobbin winder
Loading your bobbin with thread is a simple task
This small pin that sticks out of the top of the sewing machine is used to load thread onto the bobbin.
To use it, you usually follow a specific threading route across the top of the sewing machine and into the bobbin, click the bobbin in place on the pin and then move the pin over to activate the winding mechanism.
It's fairly common for the action of clicking the winder into place to disengage the needle so it doesn't move up and down as the bobbin is winding, and for the bobbin to stop loading when it is full.
However, on cheaper sewing machines you may need to de-clutch the needle manually and decide when to stop loading the bobbin for yourself.
Foot pedal
Put your foot down to sew faster
A sewing machine is driven by a belt inside that synchronises the moving parts to work together to form stitches. The speed of the belt is controlled by a foot pedal; the machine speeds up as the pedal is depressed.
Some sewing machines have a switch that allows you to select low or high speed settings, which gives you more control of the speed than the foot pedal alone.
Ready to choose your sewing machine? Make sure you take a look at our sewing machine reviews before you buy.
Stitch features on a sewing machine
Stitch selector
Sewing machines come with a range of stitches to choose from, which are often displayed on the side of the sewing machine or on the stitch-selector dial.
The stitch selector controls where the needle moves as it to stitches, which governs what the stitch looks like. For instance, if the needle alternates left and right between stitches it creates a zigzag stitch.
Basic sewing machines have a dial that you turn to select the stitch you want, while more expensive machines let you select a stitch by pressing a button or using a touchpad. Both types are usually illustrated to show you the stitch that you're selecting.
Finding the right tension for your stitch is essential
Some cheaper models treat different lengths of straight stitch, or the individual sides of a buttonhole, as an individual stitch choice.
All but the most basic entry-level sewing machines usually give you the option to vary the length and width of your stitches.
Tension control
Most sewing machines have a tension-control dial that's used to control the tension of the upper thread. This is important to help stitches form correctly.
Some dials have the tension for the most commonly used stitches highlighted on them.
Useful extra features on a sewing machine
Auto-thread function
Once you know how to use one, an auto needle threader is a great time-saver and removes the need for passing the thread through the needle manually.
Buttonhole function
Most modern sewing machines enable you to sew a buttonhole easily, with specific stitches and accessories. There are several different types:
- an automatic buttonhole feature measures the size of your button and automatically creates a buttonhole of the correct size
- a one-step buttonhole feature automatically creates a buttonhole, but you may have to tell it what size the buttonhole should be
- a four-step buttonhole process involves sewing each side of a buttonhole individually by selecting stitches sequentially to create the left side, top, right side and bottom.
Knee lifter
A knee-lifter is useful for free hand embroidering with a machine
Found on only a few sewing machines, a knee lifter is a lever which can be pressed with your knee, allowing you to lift the presser foot and drop the feed dogs without taking your hands off your work.
It enables you to move the fabric freely for quilting, sewing around curves and embroidery - ideal for large projects, or giving you an extra hand for fiddly jobs.
Sewing machine carry case
Check if your chosen sewing machine comes with a carry case or if you'll need to buy one separately.
It makes it much easier to store and move around if it has a case rather than a soft cover.
Ready to choose your sewing machine? Make sure you take a look at our sewing machine reviews before you buy.
