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Buying a log burner or multi-fuel stove

Multi-fuel and log burner installation

By Liz Ransome-Croker

Article 5 of 7

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Find out what's involved a multi-fuel or wood-burning stove installation, with tips and insider knowledge from experts and stove owners, plus watch our video of a typical installation.

Thinking of getting a wood burner or multi-fuel stove? We’ve spoken to installers, industry bodies, manufacturers and stove owners to find out exactly what you need to know about buying and installing a stove.

In this guide, we'll take you through everything you need to know about what an installation will involve – including our video guide – and how it will affect your home on the day of installation and afterwards. We cover:

It also includes tips from stove owners on what they wish they had known before they had a stove installed.

Some of this advice is exclusive to members - log in to read all our advice below. If you're not yet a member, join Which? today.

You'll also get access to our expert stove buying advice, which includes insider tips from stove owners, and our information on stove costs. This includes a costs tool to help you work out whether a stove will save you money on energy.

Stove installation 

Getting a stove installed is not something you can do yourself. You will need a qualified installer and the installation will need to meet building regulations. 

A badly installed stove is not only a fire risk, but could also produce potentially harmful pollutants and gases. See more on our stoves and pollution page.

Competent Person Scheme – why it's important

We strongly recommend that you use an installer that is registered with a government-recognised Competent Person Scheme (CPS), such as Hetas, NAPIT or APHC. 

Installers that are registered with a CPS will have been trained on installing solid fuel heating and can certify the work themselves, instead of having to get building regulations approval (read more details at the bottom of this page). 

You can find the full list of schemes on the government's Gov.uk website, and find recommended traders in your area using Which? Trusted Traders. All our traders have been through our rigorous checks to ensure they're safe, reliable and have the relevant qualifications.

Log burner or multi-fuel stove flue 

All stoves need a flue to take the expelled gases out of the room. This can either be through an existing or purpose-built chimney, or the flue can run directly up and out of the ceiling (see more on these below).

It’s very important that your flue will not let the gases escape anywhere other than out of the top, and that it keeps the gases hot so they don’t turn into condensation. This can result in tars and creosotes being left in your chimney, causing a potential fire hazard.

The chimney needs to be lined or, as is often the case with old brick chimneys, relined as it could have defects. The lining – effectively a long, flexible tube often called a flexi liner – is usually the standard size of 150ml/6in, but on occasion a smaller or larger one is needed. Each home can be different, depending on the age of the building. 

Insulating the chimney also helps the gases the stove produces stay hot. With a lined chimney, insulation will be added between the chimney wall and the lining. Our video below shows what's involved in lining and insulating an existing chimney. 

Can you install a wood burner without a chimney?

The simple answer is yes. If you don't have a chimney, you can have a standalone stove and flue, like in the image below. You will need to have an insulated twin-walled or double-wall flue though.

It's worth noting that the more you need done to line and insulate a chimney, the more it will add to the cost of the installation and could affect the stove you get. One stove owner we spoke to said: 

 What to check with your stove installer before you buy

Every home is different and there are a lot of factors that can affect installation and the stove you can buy. 

For example, the room the stove is being installed in will impact on what wattage of stove you get, which is measured in kilowatts (kW). Get the wrong wattage and your room will either be constantly stifling hot or not warm enough.

Before you get an installer in to give you a quote and advice, it’s worth working the wattage out for yourself as a guide. To calculate it, multiply the height, width and length of your room together and divide this by 14. You can use our tool below to do this.

This is just a guide. You should get an installer to check this and to give you advice before you buy. When you do, make sure they explain how they came to this (for example, what elements of your home they took into consideration) and what heat output it will give your room. 

The installer should also show you calculations for how efficient the stove will be in your room. We would always recommend getting a survey done in your home before you buy a stove, to save spending money on one that may not work in your home. See more information below.

To see what other elements you need to consider when buying, including the stove efficiency and fuels to use, go to how to buy a stove

Stove installation survey: what's involved 

In order to check what kind of work needs doing before fitting the stove, an installer will come to your home to look at all aspects of the room. From whether there is a chimney or what state it's in, to the size of your room and how many windows and doors you have. 

If you have a chimney already, an installer will run a ‘smoke test',  usually using a smoke pellet in the chimney. This will show whether there are any cracks or fissures letting smoke out of the chimney.

If this is inconclusive, the installer will use a camera to check inside the chimney. Installers are legally bound if anything goes wrong, so it’s not uncommon for an installer to reline the chimney, especially if the building is old. You should be given a written breakdown of the results, so ask for one if you're not.

We recommend getting three surveys done on your home so you can get some comparative quotes. They should all give you written confirmation of the cost and what it will include, from the work to the parts.

It’s worth noting that some installers charge for this survey (you will often be offered this amount back if you choose them), particularly if they are not local to you.

Take the hard work out of finding an installer by visiting Which? Trusted Traders. We vet all our certified installers so that you can be sure you'll find the best.

Wood-burning stove installation video

So that you can see what's involved in an installation and what it means for you and your home, we filmed a typical stove installation. 

Which? members can log in to watch our video to see the process and read on below to understand more about the different stages and building regulations. If you're not yet a member, join Which? today.

Multi-fuel or wood-burning stove installation: what will happen on the day

Find out what's involved in a stove installation and hear from stove owners about what they wish they had known before they bought a stove and had it installed by logging in.

If you're not a Which? member, join Which? today for full access to this guide.

Log burner and multi-fuel stove building regulations 

No matter what type of chimney, flue or stove you have, it will need to meet certain building regulation, and building control will need to be informed. The Hetas website (hetas.co.uk) has a full list of all the British standards each element needs to meet. We list the key elements below.

The flue must comply with Part J of UK building regulations, Part F in Scotland and Part L in Northern Ireland. 

You must have proper ventilation in the room to help the fuel burn without creating extra carbon dioxide, so a vent may have to be added into your home, particularly if you have a high-wattage stove. This is something a number of stove owners said they wish they had know before buying a stove. One said:

Regulations also stipulate that you must have a carbon monoxide detector in the room where the stove is installed.

There are also rules around the hearth and its size. For example, if the stove is installed in an alcove, the hearth must come in front of it by 500mm and have 150mm either side. One stove owner told us: 

You’ll therefore need to consider the space and cost to accommodate this. You can find out more about exact hearth sizes on the Stove Industry Alliance website (stoveindustryalliance.com).

The flue and stove must be a certain distance from any combustibles, which varies from 100mm to 450mm depending on the stove (you can check the manufacturer's instructions). The stove flue should be a minimum of three times the diameter from combustibles. It is less for a twin-wall insulated pipe, but again can vary by manufacturer.

An installer that has been registered with the Competent Person Scheme (CPS) will be able to sign off the installation. If the installer you use is not registered with CPS, you will need to get someone from Building Control to inspect the installation. This can cost as much as £300, and they may not pass the installation.

Even if your installer is part of the CPS scheme, there are some circumstances where Building Control still needs to be informed - such as if you live in a listed property or conservation area.

The installer should give you full details of what will be done to your home, how much disruption this will cause and how long it will take. It’s good to get this in writing.

You can use Which? Trusted Traders to find an installer near you to assess your home and specific circumstances. All our traders are vetted by ex-Trading Standards employees, so they know what makes a reputable tradesperson.

Workmanship warranties for stoves

All installers should provide a minimum of one year’s warranty on your installation. If your installer is part of the CPS, ask if they can also provide you with a Workmanship Warranty, which will cover you for six years after the installation in the event of the company going out of business. Make sure you ask for written confirmation of what any warranties cover and the time period.

There is also a Deposit and Workmanship Warranty Insurance scheme to help protect your deposit. It’s worth noting that the installer should not ask you for more than a 25% deposit for the work.

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