I’ve lived in Portugal for two years – here’s why you should explore the west coast on your next trip.
It’s understandable that the Algarve is a summer holiday go-to for British travellers. Vast stretches of sand, glittering seas lapping otherworldly rock formations and coves – not to mention its southern positioning, making it a strategic destination for fly and flops. But there is far more to Portugal than this infamous edge of the country, where a beach lounger is getting trickier to secure, as more tourists flock to the region each year.
I’ve lived in Portugal for two years now, and have visited for holidays with my Portuguese partner for many more. Of course, I have happy memories of Algarve beach trips in Albufeira and Portimão. But I’ve also learnt where Portuguese beachgoers enjoy holidays beyond the region. Like where to go for clean powdery sand and jewel-toned waters that rival Bali. How to find the freshest seafood without falling into tourist traps. Which spots are best for watersports followed by a hot tosta mista (Portugal’s answer to the cheese toastie) in an unpretentious beach bar, and where to visit for serene sunsets, staggering scenery and exceptional yet cheap wine.
Below, I share five underrated destinations on the mainland that you should consider for your next Portuguese beach holiday.
Praia dos Galphos & Galapinhos
If crystal clear waters and world-class sands are what pull you to the Algarve, try the Bahía de Setúbal (‘Setúbal Bay’).
Standout beaches in the region include Praia dos Galphos and Praia dos Galapinhos. The first is better suited to those who need easier access, with only a short walk down to the shore. The second is for those prepared to bring a cool-box of refreshments and follow a trail on the way down. Both are among my favourites in Portugal. They have the clearest, brightest blue sea I’ve seen on the mainland, with expansive white sands and shrubby backdrops of the Arrábida Natural Park, offering a retreat into nature.
While you’re in the area, take a boat tour to go dolphin-spotting, and visit the city of Setúbal to enjoy some of the region’s exceptional seafood. Don’t assume the seafront spots are tourist traps – you can eat very well along the waterfront while spending relatively little.
Comporta
The quaint, colourful beach village of Comporta, with its spacious sands and sophisticated beach bars, is becoming somewhat famous – but not so much so that it is overwhelmed with visitors. It’s informally known as ‘The Portuguese Hamptons’, due to the fact many celebrities have bought holiday properties in the area, including Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. But the area is still relatively undiscovered by international tourists, and isn’t prohibitively expensive. That’s especially true if you head to the local tavernas, beachside restaurants and coffee shops.
Pick any beach in the area – there’s almost 25 miles of clean, soft sand to stick a parasol into, if the flamingos haven’t beaten you to the spot. And for a little something different, you can also take a relaxing walk among the shady pine forests, stroll around the brightly coloured beach houses, or go stork spotting in the village.
Sintra-Cascais
The regions of Sintra and Cascais – two of the most popular day trip destinations from Lisbon – are bound together not just by a lush natural park, but also by a brilliantly diverse coastline. It caters to any kind of beachgoer, with the buzzy, smaller beaches tucked at the foot of Cascais, fantastic all-rounders like Sintra’s Praia das Maçãs, and dramatic clifftop vistas with wild, untouched shores further north.
Staying along this coast positions you strategically to hop into the Unesco world heritage-listed fairytale town of Sintra itself during off-peak hours, which means you can experience its iconic palaces and castles without having to battle the heavy tourist traffic coming from Lisbon.
Further along this stretch of coastline, which is known as the Portuguese Riviera, you’ll also find the picturesque Estoril – another hotspot. Here, you can visit Praia de São Pedro for calm waves sheltered by magnificent limestone cliffs, as stone pines, eucalyptus and giant aloe plants sway in the breeze.
Peniche
You might be worried that forgoing the Algarve means sacrificing those geological wonders that the region is famed for – but not if you go to Peniche. Here you can also get your fix of caves, coves and sun-kissed sea stacks jutting out from the waters, with Jurassic rock dating back hundreds of millions of years. The real treat is the Berlengas Archipelago, which you can reach via a short boat trip from the coast.
Peniche itself is a laid-back fishing town, frequented by surfers, offering an unpretentious experience and a peaceful beachy haven, where you can relax on golden sands or enjoy a spot of snorkelling, followed by bolas de berlim (a beloved Portuguese beach delicacy: a fluffy sugared doughnut filled with egg custard, handed out by beach vendors). There’s plenty to do beyond sunbathing too, from exploring the fortress and the lighthouse, to cooling off in stunning tiled churches.
You could even head for a day trip to the neighbouring Nazaré, another of Portugal’s popular beach towns. During winter it’s home to some of the most gigantic wave swells in the world. By summer, the climate settles, but it is a little windier, so pick a sheltered spot and consider a light jacket for evenings.
Odeceixe
The southernmost of my recommendations (and likely therefore the balmiest), you’ll find this hideaway on the corner of Portugal where the Algarve meets the dreamy Alentejo, along the Vicentine coast.
This stunning fluvial beach (Praia de Odeceixe) is divided by the Seixe river, meaning you can choose whether to float in the calm lagoons on the river side, or take an invigorating dip on the shore of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s been voted as one of the 7 ‘Marvilhas de Portugal’, or ‘wonders of Portugal’ – and for good reason. There’s plenty of space on the sand so you’ll be able to find a spot to sunbathe in peace, taking in the rugged scenery that surrounds.
The sleepy village is a whitewashed, terracotta-topped haven, which climbs the hill to a scenic restored windmill – you’ll likely spend your time here alongside Portuguese folk on their own summertime getaways.
Looking to book beyond Portugal? Read our guide to the best beach towns in the Mediterranean