How much you pay for underfloor heating varies dramatically depending on which type you choose, whether it will be installed in a new room or retrofitted to an existing room, and how your home's floors are constructed
To make sure you don't end up paying more than you should for underfloor heating, or make a choice that you later regret, we've done the hard work for you.
We've also spoken to members who have underfloor heating, to get their tips on what to consider when buying and having it installed. We've asked what they wish they'd known and what they would have done differently, so you'll know exactly what to expect and can avoid annoying or costly mistakes.
There are two types of underfloor heating:
Water underfloor heating
Electric underfloor heating
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Yes you can – underfloor heating can be fitted in any home. However, in properties with low energy efficiency - for example, those with single glazing and no insulation - it's unlikely that it will be able to act as the only form of heating. You'll probably need to have central heating and radiators as well. The running costs might be prohibitive, too.
However, if you have additional work carried out to improve how well the house retains heat, such as loft insulation and modern glazing, it could be much more effective and your heating bills won't be so big.
In most cases, no. However, if your home is a listed or a historically significant property, it's worth checking your plans with a qualified surveyor or architect.
If you're putting the underfloor heating into a new room, work will need to conform to building regulations.
Most types of flooring are fine to use on top of underfloor heating, including vinyl, laminate and tiles. But some types, such as natural stone, are better as they naturally conduct heat. This means the floor will feel warm more quickly and should retain the warmth for longer.
However, if your heart is set on a particular type of flooring, your installer should be able to adjust the underfloor heating system output, the underlay and type of screed to suit the floor type.
If you have real wood floors, it's worth checking with the manufacturer what the maximum temperature is that the wood can take – it's typically 27°C. Temperatures that are too high can warp and shrink the flooring, especially if the moisture content of the wood is high.
Engineered wooden or laminate floors are a much better choice if you don't want to run the risk of problems in the future but want the look of wood. However, it shouldn't exceed a maximum thickness of 18mm, as this will reduce the efficiency of your underfloor heating system.
Although carpet isn't the most efficient floor covering on top of underfloor heating, as it will take time for the heat to get through, it can still be used. To get the best out of it, keep the combined tog value of the underlay and carpet below 2.5.
If you like the contemporary look and want exposed concrete floors, make sure you don't use this to encase the underfloor heating system. Both water and electric systems should be installed within the screed layer, not concrete, as sharp aggregate can damage the system.
It's also worth keeping in mind that concrete will take longer to warm up but will retain the heat for longer.
When we spoke to underfloor heating owners about their experiences, there were a few key areas that kept cropping up.