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It’s always worth having a supply of fresh herbs on your windowsill or in your garden. The flavours they give to food are heavenly and they add a touch of summer freshness to whatever dish you’re cooking.
Cut herbs, such as basil, chives, coriander or parsley, bought from the supermarket tend to quickly wilt and die.
We will show you how you can ensure a good supply that will last a reasonable time and will give you a regular harvest of herbs for any dish you decide to cook.
In this guide we will tell you the best herbs to grow indoors, which types are easiest from seed and how to grow popular varieties in your garden.
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To ensure you get the best advice we grew basil, chives, parsley and coriander at our trial gardens using three different methods. We grew each herb from seed, we kept ready-grown herb plants from supermarkets as they were, and we also split densely-sown supermarket plants into smaller clumps and repotted them at the start of the trial.
Best method: split plants from the supermarket
Supermarket herbs are essentially sold as lots of young plants in a single pot. Because there are so many crammed in together, they don’t have room to develop and compete with each other for water and nutrients. When we split the supermarket-grown basil and chive plants, we incorporated a controlled-release fertiliser with a Best Buy compost for containers. These repotted herbs bulked out substantially and gave a much more consistent yield over the course of the trial. In just ten days, the split plants were doing better than the untouched supermarket plants, which were already showing signs of nutrient stress.
How to grow them
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Best method: grow from seed
If you don’t mind waiting a little while for your herbs, it’s well worth growing parsley and coriander from seed instead. We sowed our herbs in late July and by the end of August they really started producing well. By the end of our trial, the seed-grown plants were very lush and healthy and were growing strongly.
How to grow them
Coriander took ten days to germinate and parsley took almost three weeks – it’s notoriously erratic. Once the seeds come up, they may need thinning out to give them more space. If you do remove some seedlings, gently firm those that are left back into the soil. We grew about 30-50 seedlings per pot, which is about the same number of plants as in a supermarket-bought pot.
We asked 4,414 members of our Which? Connect online panel to tell us about the herbs they grow and how they use them. A massive 4,332 members (98% of those who grow herbs) do it to use them in cooking. They grow 10 different culinary herbs in the garden, on average.
Many herbs are very easy to grow from seed and for the price of a single packet you can grow many more plants than you could buy for the same money. We grew a range of popular herbs from seed and recorded how well each variety germinated, when we could pick the first leaves, how ornamental the plants were and the date of our final harvest.
We grew traditional ‘Genovese’ basil and the miniature-leaved ‘Pluto’. Both germinated within 10 days and we were picking leaves from early June until August. ‘Genovese’ flowered in early August, which impairs the flavour of the leaves, but ‘Pluto’ was a neat mound of fragrant leaves in mid-September. Basil is tender so won’t survive the winter; you could bring plants indoors or harvest the whole plant, make pesto to freeze and sow again the following spring. Most seed packets contain hundreds of seeds so a single packet should last a good while. We also grew basil as microherbs – the pungent shoots were ready to harvest within two weeks.
Best Buy varieties: ‘Genovese’, ‘Pesto’, ‘Pluto’, ‘Queen of Sheba’
Chive seeds can take a while to germinate; the ideal temperature is 19°C. Once ours got going, they quickly made profuse clumps of upright leaves in a shallow 30cm pot. They grew well throughout summer, still looked good in August, and come September, they still hadn’t flowered – giving us plenty of leaves to pick. Potted chives can be brought under cover in winter, or you could cut off all the leaves and freeze them ready chopped; the plants should resprout in the spring. When the plants produce flowers you can use these to add colour and flavour to salads.
We grew two varieties: our Best Buy ‘Calypso’, and ‘Slow Bolt’. Both grew rapidly and were ready to pick five weeks after sowing. Coriander tends to bolt (produce flowers and set seed) in hot, dry weather – our ‘Slow Bolt’ plants bolted just four weeks after our first harvest. ‘Calypso’ fared better and we picked leaves several times before it flowered in July. We also sowed under glass in mid-September. The plants grew slowly but didn’t flower – important if you want leaves rather than seeds. Microherbs also worked well, and with 700 seeds per pack, didn’t feel like a waste – sow thinly and snip off seedlings to add punch to salads.
You’d be forgiven for thinking that this woody herb would take too long to harvest if grown from seed. But from a late-March sowing, we were picking flavoursome, aromatic leaves in June. Three plants rapidly filled a 30cm shallow container, forming a neat mound of dainty, fragrant foliage that kept its smell, even after flowering started in August. As a bonus, the blooms were very attractive to pollinating insects. These shrubby evergreens can be picked all year round. Be sure to use a free-draining compost and protect from excessive winter wet.
Patience is key with parsley. We grew a flat leaf and a curly variety, and both took three weeks to germinate (though it can take up to six). We also tried the technique of pouring boiling water onto the compost before sowing to speed up germination, but found that it made no difference. After our early April sowing, we picked our first leaves in July from vigorous bushy plants that kept going all summer. Parsley is a biennial, growing leaves in the first year, and flowering and setting seed in the second, so it’s often treated as an annual. Bring potted plants under cover in winter to prolong the harvest and then sow newly bought seed in the spring.
Best Buy varieties: ‘Champion Moss Curled’, ‘Green Pearl’, ‘Plain Leaved 2’
Dill was the least successful of the herbs we grew. Germination was a bit patchy and once we’d taken our first harvest in mid-June, the plants rapidly bolted as it flowers during the longest days. That said, the plants were vigorous with attractive foliage and yellow umbels of flowers that are popular with pollinators. Dill doesn’t like root disturbance so is best sown where you want it to grow, either in the ground or a container. You can buy hundreds of seeds for only a few pounds so it’s worth growing, rather than buying cut leaves from the supermarket. Sow successionally in containers to you always have fresh leaves.
Our mint seeds germinated in just 10 days and quickly formed sprawling mounds of fragrant foliage. We started picking the strongly scented leaves in June and continued until the plants started to flower in mid-August. Mints are best grown in containers as their roots are invasive. The plants die down over winter to reshoot in spring. Look out for alternatives to common garden mint such as Best Buys Chocolate mint or Emperor’s mint.
If you enjoy Southeast Asian flavours, it’s definitely worth having a go at growing your own lemongrass. It’s often thought of as tricky to germinate but our seed took just seven days to pop up. It was a while before we could pick any stems to use in the kitchen – we cut our first ones in August. But the elegant, arching, grassy clumps made an attractive patio plant, and, brought indoors to protect from frost, the plants will overwinter and resprout in the spring. Divide and repot plants if necessary, and feed with a liquid fertiliser.
Place kitchen roll in a small seed tray or reused food container; moisten and sow seeds thinly on top. Place on a warm windowsill and keep damp using a fine-mist spray bottle. Microherbs can be harvested as soon as the first leaves have grown. Basil and coriander worked well in our test – they are packed with flavour, despite being tiny, and are perfect for garnishing salads.