Does dermaplaning really reduce facial hair? Our wellbeing editor tried it out

I've noticed more fine hairs appearing on my face lately – the kind that catch the light and seem to multiply overnight.

Romantically, I refer to it as 'peach fuzz', but in reality, I have a blonde beard forming, which ruins make-up application in an instant and becomes illuminated by just a few rays of light.

It's a normal part of ageing. As oestrogen levels drop, especially around menopause, those soft vellus hairs on the chin or upper lip can become a little thicker or darker.

Curious to know whether anything could help, I decided to explore the causes and tested a few dermaplaning tools at home to find out whether they can actually make a difference.

I also spoke to Dr Hansel Misquitta, an aesthetics doctor and skin expert, about dermaplaning and safety tips – so my bathroom didn't end up resembling a horror film.

About the author

With over 25 years of experience in the beauty and wellness industry, Sarah has written for leading publications including Elle, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar. A seasoned product tester with deep industry insight, she brings a rigorous, consumer-first approach to beauty journalism.

Passionate about skincare and wellbeing, Sarah believes that the right product, chosen wisely, can make a meaningful difference to everyday life.

Sarah Joan Ross, content editor

Why I turned to dermaplaning

There are plenty of reasons facial fuzz can increase, and hormones are only one part of the picture. Low weight, certain medications such as steroids, immunosuppressants or anticonvulsants, and conditions such as PCOS can also trigger extra fuzz, so I'm not alone. 

I find myself tugging at the longer chin hairs during meetings or when I'm stressed or bored. Then, showing up like a 'halo' in pictures, enough was enough.

I wasn’t keen on the idea of threading or using toxic-smelling removal creams. I also didn't want to spend a fortune on clinic trips. These can vary, with some clinics charging from £50 up to £250. 

Plus, there's been a boom in DIY dermablading tools for home use, which are now much more mainstream and can be found easily on the high street and online.

The main difference between the clinic and home treatment is that a doctor or aesthetician will use a sterile No.10 blade. So, along with the soft vellus hair, typically 10–20 microns of skin is removed (that's about 1/100th of a millimetre).

At-home dermablading tools work slightly differently. DIY dermaplaning tools consist of a guarded facial razor with blades featuring perpendicular ridges. These remove 2–5 microns of skin, clearing away only dead surface debris and peach fuzz.

I bought three tools at different prices to try at home. Keep scrolling to see how I got on. 

Choosing a dermablading tool

These are the three tools I tried out. All have a ridged blade to help protect skin from nicks.

FFS Dermablading Tool with 2 blades (£16)

Heavier metal version with disposable blades – online only.

• Replacement blades: £12 for a pack of 5. 
• Available from: Amazon, FFS, Superdrug

Nimbi Facial Dermaplaners (3 for £7.99)

Super light, great for travel, disposable.

• Available from: Amazon, Nimbi

Venus Dermaplaner Tool with 1 Blade (£10)

Refillable and easy to find on the high street.

• Replacement blades: £15 for pack of 4. 
• Available from: Amazon, Boots, Gillette

For any tool, Dr Hansel warns: 'Use the blade for a single session, then bin it. Hygiene always beats frugality.'

How to dermaplane at home

Dr Hansel recommends the following steps, which I followed in my DIY trial:

1. Clean your face with your usual cleansing routine. Then pat dry.
2. Use a hair identifier spray to highlight hairs. 
3. Spray 20-30cm from the face, targeting cheeks, jaw, upper lip and chin (wear goggles or glasses to protect eyes).
4. Stretch the skin taut and hold the blade at a ~45° angle.
5. Using light downward strokes, in the direction of hair growth, slowly glide the blade across the face in short passes.
6. After each pass, wipe the blade with a tissue (not a cotton pad or wet wipe, as fibres can catch and cause skin nicks).
7. Once all sections are complete, rinse with cool water.
8. Apply a hypochlorous acid spray generously with a cotton pad. Smooth on a skin barrier cream.
9. Use an SPF post-treatment if performed during daylight hours. 

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Dermablading at home – helpful tips 

My preference was for a heavier tool — I liked the feel and look of the FFS; it's weightier than the others, so I felt like I had more control. Plus, it's refillable, reduces waste, and looks a little more premium than the rest. 

However, there didn’t seem to be much difference between the sharpness of each blade when I tested each on different parts of my face. So, choose whichever feels most comfortable for you.

It also helps to tie your hair away from your face and secure it with a headband or similar. Because when you dermaplane near the ear, it can get confusing as to where your facial hair finishes and your hairline begins. 

Try a hair identifier spray to highlight the vellus hairs. The spray is usually white or tinted, making fine, pale hairs easier to see before dermaplaning. 

It doesn’t remove hair; it just highlights it. But wear protective goggles or old sunglasses, as the spray can dry your eyes. And always spray on a dry face, the powder won’t adhere to wet or damp skin. 

Always use the blade in the direction of hair growth, and never against, to ensure the smoothest shave and protection of the skin. 

The results of dermaplaning at home 

From start to finish, it took me around 40 minutes to do my whole face, but next time it'll likely take 20–30 minutes now that I've got the hang of the technique.

I found that the trickiest parts were the small, uneven areas like the nose and upper lip.

Around the nose, the hair is mainly at the tip and nostrils, and with all the curves and dips, it made it hard to keep the blade flat, so I used very short, light strokes. 

The upper lip was also awkward because the skin is thinner and more mobile, so I pulled the lip down gently and again worked in tiny sections. 

The jawline and chin took extra care too, because of the angles and any small bumps, so I slowed down there and kept checking in a mirror to make sure I wasn’t going over the same spot too many times (Dr Hansel mentioned not going too close to the lip and being careful near folds of skin).

I was a little pink afterwards — no worse than after a scrub or facial — and it completely disappeared within an hour or two. With just one very small nick, near my ear, that didn’t bleed or cause any issues. 

My skin felt a little tighter than usual and had the odd, very light twinge, but by morning this had subsided entirely.

The first time around, I did miss a little patch by my ear, and some on the curve of the jawbone, but the rest of my skin felt super smooth. 

The best bit? A day later, my skin felt smoother, my make-up glided on seamlessly, and my foundation sat beautifully. A friend even commented on my glowy complexion. I definitely noticed the difference.

Avoid after dermaplaning at home 

Skip 'active skincare' products for up to three days post-treatment - that includes:

• Retinol
• Vitamin C
• AHAs/BHAs / exfoliating acids
• Scrubs
• Plus, saunas and steam rooms. 

Retinol explained: we dig into the science, and what to know before you try it, including the skincare not to mix it with in our retinol buying guide.

Dermaplaning accessories to try

Use a hair identifier product

I used: FFS Facial Hair Identifier Spray, £6.95 (available from FFS)

This spray made the vellus hairs really stand out. By this point, I looked like Santa had come to town.

For a first-timer, this really helped guide me to see the areas I'd already treated and made the blade glide smoothly across the skin.

The product includes: alcohol to remove surface oils and prep the skin, plus panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) and aloe extract to soothe and minimise redness.

Tone with a hypochlorous acid 

I used: Clinisept+ Skin, Hypochlorous Acid Spray £15.15 (available from Amazon)

A skin-safe antimicrobial solution (it contains no alcohol, fragrances or harsh chemicals) and kills bacteria, reduces inflammation, and calms irritated skin without stinging. (I also keep this in my first-aid kit as it's great for treating a range of kids' and adult skin issues, from grazed knees to acne – and it isn't stingy at all.)

Soothe with a balm cream

I used: La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ Ultra Repairing Multi-Purpose Soothing Balm, £11 (available from Boots and Sephora)

I already had this in my beauty arsenal. It's great for post-treatment skin recovery and also ideal when the temperature drops or skin is irritated.It contains panthenol (vitamin B5) to soothe and repair, plus zinc and manganese, which offer antibacterial properties to support a healthy healing environment.

Apply SPF

If you are dermablading during daylight hours, especially during the months of March until October in the UK when the sun is strongest, don't forget to apply SPF as your skin will be more vulnerable to sun and environmental damage.

Check out our best suncare products for the face - independently lab tested.

Can you dermaplane other areas of the body?

'You can dermaplane the face safely because facial vellus hair is fine, flat and easy to exfoliate without causing trauma,' says Dr Hansel. 

However, she warns: 'The rest of the body isn't built the same way. Arms and legs have thicker terminal hair, different follicle angles and a higher chance of irritation and folliculitis if you drag a blade over them — it's basically asking for in-growns.'

As for the bikini area? That would be a hard 'no', warns Dr Hansel. 'The skin is thinner, more vascular, more sensitive and has a completely different microbiome. There's a high risk of micro-tears, inflammation and post-inflammatory pigmentation problems.'

Stick to professional waxing or laser hair removal.'

Best razors for women - tested and rated by Which? for a smoother shave.

Does dermaplaning make skincare work harder?

In principle, dermaplaning may help skincare penetrate more easily. However, real‑world cosmetic studies on everyday skincare products after gentle, at‑home dermaplaning are still limited. Hence, the exact size of the effect for typical serums and creams is not yet well quantified.

How often should you dermaplane at home?

Dr Hansel recommends 'dermablading every two to four weeks, or as your hair growth demands.'

She adds a caveat: 'If you feel the need to do it too often, it's a sign to dig deeper. Consider laser hair removal or get your hormones checked instead of waging war with a razor every few days.'

Does shaving make your hair grow back faster? We get to the root of this hair-growth myth, with help from the experts

Dermaplaning myths busted

• Hair grows back thicker: no, it does not change the hair follicles.
• It causes acne: no, but good hygiene is crucial. Wash your hands, and use an antimicrobial solution post-treatment. 
• It's only for women: not true. Men can dermaplane too, but must avoid the beard area.
• It removes all hair: no. Thick terminal hairs mostly remain intact — you'll need to remove these separately (waxing, threading, laser, tweezing).
• It removes sun damage: no. Superficial exfoliation only. For more intensive resurfacing, consider peels, lasers, microdermabrasion, or topical retinoids.
• Just use a regular razor: no. A regular razor can cause irritation, and nicks and damage the skin barrier. 

We tested men’s razors from Harry’s, Gillette, Bic and more to find the best razors for men.

Who should avoid dermaplaning at home

Dr Hansel's advice: skip home dermaplaning if you have:

• Active acne
• Eczema
• Rosacea flare
• Recent peel/laser/injectable
• Sunburn
• Open wounds
• On isotretinoin or blood thinners

Our expert: Dr Hansel Misquitta, MBBS, MSc, is a London-based Aesthetic Doctor with advanced microsurgical training and a Master's from UCL.